Hey everyone, it’s Jake here from your go-to roadheader undercarriage supplier – I know a lot of you guys out there are gearing up for winter mining and tunneling projects, which means dealing with way colder temps than most gear was built for. And let’s be real – your roadheader’s undercarriage is the unsung hero of the whole rig, right? It’s hauling that massive cutter head, navigating uneven ground, taking way more beatings in cold than any other part. I’ve seen too many crews pull up to a job site in January, only to find their undercarriage locked up, track links seized, or hydraulic fluid thick as molasses – and that’s a project timeline disaster waiting to happen. So today, I’m breaking down the real, no-BS precautions I’ve learned over 8 years selling undercarriages (and troubleshooting every cold-weather mess you can imagine) that actually work, no fancy textbook jargon. Roadheader Undercarriage
First off, let’s cut the crap – cold weather doesn’t just “slow your undercarriage down,” it physically changes every single part that makes it run. Metal contracts, hydraulic fluids get gummy, grease turns into something that’s more like wax than lube, and even track tension can shift so much it throws your whole alignment off. I had a customer in northern Canada a couple years back who skipped a pre-heat step, cranked his roadheader to get to a face that was 12 degrees Fahrenheit, and snapped a track link before he even moved 10 feet. Cost him 3 days of downtime, a whole new link, and he’s still kicking himself for skipping that 15-minute pre-check. So let’s start with the stuff you do before you even turn the key – because this is where 90% of cold-weather issues get prevented.
Let’s talk about fluids first, because this is the biggest, most avoidable mistake guys make. Most stock hydraulic and gear oils that come with new undercarriages are formulated for mild temps, like 40 to 100 degrees. When it drops below 32, those oils thin out or thicken? Wait, no – actually, they thicken. Way too much. If your hydraulic fluid is too cold, it can’t flow through the lines to the track motors, so they seize up. I always tell my customers to switch to cold-weather-specific fluids at least a week before the first freeze – not the day of. These fluids have lower viscosity ratings, so they stay pumpable even in sub-zero temps. And don’t just guess at the weight – check the local weather for the low end your project will hit. If you’re working in places that drop to -20, get a synthetic fluid marked for -40 minimum, not just “cold weather.” Also, gear oil for the final drives – I see guys pulling the dipstick and seeing a milky, goopy mess and thinking it’s contaminated, when it’s just cold thickened oil. You need to warm that up gradually, not crank the engine and hope it loosens. Oh, and don’t top off with regular fluid if you already switched to cold-weather – that messes up the viscosity. Sticking to one type is non-negotiable here.
Next up, lubrication – but not just slapping grease on when it’s warm. Track pins, bushings, rollers, idlers – all those moving parts. Regular grease turns into a hard crust in cold temps, so it can’t penetrate the tight gaps between parts. I recommend using a low-temperature, high-pressure (LT-HP) grease specifically designed for undercarriage pins, not the general stuff you use on your pickup. And here’s the pro tip: grease after you’ve run the machine for 10 minutes to warm up the parts, not before. Wait, why? Because if you grease a cold track pin, the grease can’t get into the seal and working area – it just sits on top of the frozen metal, and by the time the part warms up, the grease has hardened so it can’t protect it. I had a customer in Minnesota who did this and ended up with 12 seized track pins in a month – cost him more in labor than a year of good grease. Also, don’t over-grease. That’s just wasteful, and excess grease can trap dirt and ice, which causes more wear. A quick, targeted squeeze on each zerk fitting is enough.
Then there’s pre-heating, and I don’t mean just warming up the engine. The undercarriage’s motors, lines, and even the track itself needs to be brought up to temp slowly. A lot of guys crank the engine, rev it up for 5 minutes, and think that’s enough – but if the undercarriage is still at 10 degrees, the fluid inside the motors is frozen, so when you move the tracks, you’ll burn out the seals or strip the gears. I always tell folks to use a block heater for the hydraulic system, or even a portable infrared heater aimed at the track motors for 15 to 20 minutes before start-up. If you don’t have a block heater, let the machine idle in neutral for 10 minutes, then lightly move the tracks back and forth for another 5 – that helps warm up the fluid without putting stress on the parts. Another thing to watch: track tension. Cold weather makes metal contract, so tracks that were tight in the fall might get too loose when it freezes. Wait, how do you check that? You should have a tension gauge, right? If not, the old “push the middle of the track up 2 inches” rule works for mild temps, but when it’s below freezing, you need to adjust it warm. If you adjust it when it’s cold, once the track warms up during operation, it will stretch too much and cause derailments. I see so many guys adjusting tension at 5 a.m. when it’s freezing, then by noon the track is hanging so low it’s coming off. Adjust when the machine is at operating temp – that’s the key.
Now, when you’re actually working – don’t just hammer through the face like you would in summer. Cold metal is more brittle, so sudden stops or sharp turns can snap track links. Take it slow for the first hour, especially if you’re moving over icy or uneven ground. Also, avoid standing in one spot for too long – that lets ice and snow build up between the track shoes and rollers, which can cause the track to lock or the roller to seize. Every hour or so, stop and clear out that packed ice with a shovel or a pressure washer (but don’t use hot water – that can cause metal to crack from thermal shock). I had a customer in Alaska use hot water to clear ice off his undercarriage, and he ended up with 3 cracked track frames within a week – thermal shock is real, guys. Hot metal hitting cold ice makes the metal expand and contract way too fast, leading to fractures. Stick to cold water or a scraper.
Storage is another big one, especially if you’re not running the machine 24/7 in cold weather. A lot of guys just park their roadheader outside, tracks down, and cover it with a tarp – but that traps moisture and cold against the undercarriage. If you can, store it in a heated garage or enclosure over the weekend or during lulls. If not, block up the track so it’s not sitting on the ground – that lets air circulate under the track, preventing ice from forming between the shoes and the ground. Also, drain the water from the hydraulic lines and water traps every night, because if that freezes, it can split the lines and cause leaks. I had a customer in Wyoming forget to drain the water separator one night, and the line burst, costing him $2,000 in parts and a day of downtime. That’s a avoidable mistake.
Wait, also let’s talk about regular inspections, not just when something breaks. Every morning, before you start the machine, check the track links for cracks, the rollers for play, and the zerk fittings to make sure they’re not frozen shut. If a zerk is frozen, don’t force the grease gun on it – you’ll snap the fitting, and then you can’t grease that pin. Use a lighter or a hair dryer to warm the zerk gently, then try again. And listen, if you’re noticing unusual noises – like clunking when you turn, or grinding from the track – don’t ignore it. A lot of guys think that’s normal in cold weather, but that’s usually a sign of a seized pin or a dry roller that’s about to fail. Catching it early saves you a ton of money and downtime.
I know a lot of you might think this is overkill, but I’ve been doing this long enough to know that 90% of the cold-weather undercarriage issues I see are preventable with these steps. The worst part is, guys think their undercarriage is just a commodity – something that will run no matter what – but it’s not. It’s a precision piece of equipment, and cold temps don’t care how tough you are. I’ve sold undercarriages to mines that are working year-round in places like North Dakota, Alberta, and even Siberia, and the ones that follow these steps have undercarriages that last 30-40% longer than the ones that skip these precautions. That’s not a small number – that’s thousands of dollars saved on replacements and labor.
Now, I’m not just here to lecture you – if you’re gearing up for winter, and you need to swap your fluids, get a custom grease recommendation, or even upgrade your undercarriage to handle sub-zero temps, hit me up. I work with crews all over the world, so whether you’re in a small tunnel job in Ohio or a big mine in Canada, I can hook you up with the right gear and tips tailored to your exact conditions. No sales pitch that’s too pushy, just honest advice from someone who’s actually seen the mess cold weather can make.
Before I wrap this up, let’s quick recap the main points so you don’t forget them: switch to cold-weather-specific fluids at least a week before freezes, use low-temp undercarriage grease and grease after warm-up, pre-heat hydraulic systems and track motors, adjust track tension when the machine’s warm, don’t use hot water to clear ice, store indoors or block tracks to prevent ice buildup, drain water traps daily, and do quick pre-start inspections. Follow these, and you’ll avoid 90% of the cold-weather undercarriage headaches I see every winter.
Roadheader Undercarriage References:
- Caterpillar Inc. (2022). Cold Weather Operation Guidelines for Track-Type Construction Equipment. Caterpillar Global Mining.
- Komatsu Ltd. (2021). Undercarriage Maintenance in Extreme Temperatures. Komatsu Mining Corp. Technical Bulletin.
- International Union of Operating Engineers (2023). Winter Equipment Care Manual for Underground Mining Machinery. IUOE Training and Development Fund.
- Mine Safety and Health Administration (MSHA) (2022). Cold Weather Maintenance Best Practices for Underground Tunneling Equipment. MSHA Technical Report.
Murphy Construction Machinery (Shandong) Co., Ltd.
Murphy Construction Machinery (Shandong) Co., Ltd. is one of the most professional roadheader undercarriage manufacturers and suppliers in China, also supports customized service with low price. Please feel free to buy CE approved roadheader undercarriage made in China here from our factory. For pricelist, contact us now.
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